Installing a Rubicon Express 4.5" Long-Arm LIft Kit

We began the project with a 2004 Wrangler X.  This vehicle already had a 2” spacer lift in place, as well as a transfer case lowering kit and 33” tires.  The rest of the vehicle was stock. 

 

The first part of the project we tackled was removing the center skid plate so we could install the new center section.  With a long arm kit, the center section is the heart of the lift.  All the new control arms attach to this section.  The RE center section is very stout, and the section comes in 3 pieces.  The separate pieces enable access to the transfer case and transmission without removing the entire section, or even any of the arms.

 

To remove the factory transfer case skid, you need to support the transmission (this support is used during most of the lift).  We used a jack stand and large wood blocks.  Next, we unbolted the metal skid and the front and rear drivelines.  Removing the drivelines now gives more room to work.  In our particular lift, we were also replacing the transfer case so we removed the case as well.

 

With the items removed, we began to tackle the first of three difficult parts of the install – installing the center section.  This process starts off fairly easy.  First, bolt up each of the outer sections using the existing threaded holes.  Next, you will notice that three horizontal holes must be cut in each side of the frame.  The best approach for this part is to use a drill with a level built into it.  That way, you can ensure a level cut once you score and start the holes.  Score a center mark in each hole using a metal punch.  Then, drop the section and start cutting. 

 

After all three holes are cut, insert the metal plugs using a bolt on each plug to align it correctly.  Here is one of two welding requirements on the lift.  Tack each plug in place so it holds until you get the section back up and bolts through.  It is very difficult to install the plugs without welding them in.  Once the plugs are in, raise each side section and bolt them up.  If the holes don’t line up perfectly, you may need to grind some metal to get bolts through.  Once done, bolt the two outer sections in and leave the bolts snug (do not tighten).  Raise the center section and put 4-6 bolts in so the center section is together.  Then tighten all the outer section bolts.  Drop the inner section so you have more room to work with the later parts.  The center section is done! 

 

Moving on to the front end.  There are several components to do with this part of the install.  First, pre-set all the control arms to the measurements set out in the kit and grease the bushings.  Next, the front end must be disconnected from the vehicle.  Start by removing the front tires and placing the axle on jack stands set to the lowest setting (remember to keep the transmission stand in place).  Next you can disconnect both sides of the front sway bar, shocks and track bar.  Then, jack the vehicle up (we used a hi-lift) enough to get jack stands under the frame.  Be sure to get the stands as far forward as possible.  Gently lower the hi-lift so the vehicle is supported on the jack stands (5 jack stands at this point).  Keep the hi-lift in place for safety.  Now, the upper and lower control arms can be removed.  The axle can now be lifted slightly (allowing the axle jack stands to be removed) and then lowered.  This will enable the springs to easily come out.  Then, jack the axle back up and put it back on the jack stands.  You now have all the old parts removed.

 

Start by installing the new front control arms.  These have the upper and lower mounts on one arm.  Since these were already measured, they can be quickly installed to both the center section and axle.  Once done, the axle can again be raised and lowered off the stands to get the new springs on.  Be sure to put the upper and lower bump stop extensions in (but don’t bolt them in) before putting the springs on.  Once the new springs are on, you can put the axle again on the jack stand.  The vehicle may be tall enough that you come off the frame jack stands – this is ok, but be sure you keep the transmission stand in place.  (Option:  We placed 2” spacers on the front of the jeep to level it – otherwise the jeep will be “raked” to the front).  Now mount the bump stop extensions.  Next, begin installing the new sway bar disconnects.  This new set up will enable the owner to quickly disconnect for better off-road articulation.  Install the new shocks (longer shocks are required on this lift).  The tires can now be re-mounted and the jack stands removed.  Lastly, the front track bar will need to be installed.  Begin by installing the track bar lowering bracket.  The supplied bolt goes into the existing hole that aligns the two frame boltholes.  These holes will need to be drilled.  Tap and drill the two holes and then push the bolts through and tighten.  This can all be done with the bracket in place.  Next, center the body over the tires by using the steering wheel (don’t start the jeep) and then adjust the track bar to fit both mounts.  Install and tighten.  The steering may need a minor adjustment to center the wheel.  If necessary, loosen the drag link and adjust as needed.  The front end is done!

 

 

 Moving to the rear end.  Jack up the rear end and remove the tires.  Set jack stands to hold the frame as far back as possible.  Then lower the axle onto jack stands.  Unbolt the rear track bar, shocks and sway bar bolts.  Raise the axle and remove the jack stands.  Lower the axle and remove the springs.  Place the axle back on the jack stands and remove the upper and lower control arms.  Install the new upper and lower arms (these were adjusted to the proper length earlier).  Again raise the axle off the jack stands and lower it down.  Place the new bump stops inside the springs and mount the springs on the axle.  Raise the axle up and place it on jack stands.  This may raise the jeep off the frame jack stands.  This is ok.  Next, bolt the new lower track bar relocation bracket in place.  Mount the new rear sway bar extensions.  Do not install the new shocks yet!  Then, put the wheels and tires back on and align the body over the tires (This may require a couple people, or ratchet straps).  Once centered, set and install the new rear track bar.  The rear end is almost done!  

 

 

Next comes difficult part number two of three.  Cut off all the lower control arm brackets so the new lift does not bind.  This can take some time if you don’t have a plasma cutter or oxy/acetylene torch.  We used cut off disks and angle grinders.  It took a while to get the brackets off.  Be careful not to cut your frame during this step.  

 

 

The next step is the last difficult section.  Installing the new rear shocks.  With this lift you must either weld on the new shock mounts, or cut the spring plates for the shocks to mount in the original locations.  We chose to temporarily use the existing mounts and cut the spring plates.  We started by installing the upper mounts on both shocks and then attempting to install the lowers.  We then measured the clearance problem and cut the plate to fit the shock (as well as hammered the stock bracket to push it toward the rear of the jeep).  Once done, the owner would go to a welding shop and have the new mounts installed (and old mounts cut off).  The tough work is now done! 

 

 

Next, we installed the new transfer case.  Ours has a 4-1 kit and a slip yoke eliminator.  After getting the case in, we were ready to install the front driveline.  We were able to re-use the stock front driveline.  Installation involves only 8 bolts.  The rear driveline requires a CV style (and lengthening).  We ordered the correct rear driveline by calling Rubicon Express and telling them our lift and transfer case details.  They told us which driveline would work, so we ordered it ahead of time.  The rear driveline bolts in with 8 bolts as well.  Once the drivelines are in, we installed the new center section and included transmission mount.  We then lowered the power train onto the mount and bolted it all together.  Go over the entire vehicle and re-tighten every nut and bolt.  Take the jeep out for a test drive, return, and inspect all the work checking that nothing is loose, miss-aligned, or binding.  You are done!  After 300 miles re-inspect the lift for anything that is loose.

 

We were fortunate to have a significant number of weekend warriors available to help with this project and were able to complete everything in one long day.  If you decide to undertake this project make sure you've got a group of friends and plenty of food on hand.  Please visit our forum at http://forum.posse4x4.org if you have any questions.